In Kyrgyzstan there are three seven-odd thousand metres high (“seventhousander”) of five in former Soviet Union, now CIS. One of these seventhousanders is - Lenin peak (7134 m). It is the most affordable of seventhousanders for ascent. The route has no special technical difficulties and does not require specialized equipment in addition to cats, ski poles and ice axe. The advantage of climbing Lenin peak that base camp is located on a green glade, at an altitude of 3600 meters, which contributes to a better rest and recovery before the main climb to the peak.
For those who do not have experience in high-altitude, remember that climb up to the mark, such as 5000-6000 m. is much more difficult than 3000 m. Therefore, climber remember that competent acclimatization - the key to success! Options entoy most acclimatization -mass. You can before coming under Lenin, like simple routes anywhere in Ala-Archa or Karakol, best of all, spend the night on the mountain for any grief about more than 4000 m. Well, if you're pressed for time or money, then you will have to do multiple outputs to Lenin before storm the peak. The first day on arrival, you can simply walk around, even a night in BC-3600 m.” it is cool!!!”.
The second important factor is who you will be. To go better with the people that you, at least . An experienced person in the team is very important: he will not panic, nor in any extreme situation and will help you with advice (or action) at the right time.
The route up to the Lenin Peak briefly like this:
Lenin peak route
From base camp to camp 1 (ABC) need to go down the trail through the pass Travelers to get lost is very difficult, because the trail pronounced. The output from the ABC -1 at an altitude of 4400m. right in the center of the North Wall. When he reached the beginning of the icefall, located on the right hand on the path of recovery, it is necessary to turn to the right and traverse through a large meadow, sandwiched circus ridges, which people call the Pan. There, on the rocks, and is located in camp No. 2, located at an altitude of 5300 meters Go straight up from the campsite to the left of the rock exit, you must go straight up 25-30 degree slope and reach the crest of the Northwest ridge, then left along the ridge towards the main peaks (Twin). Climb to the top Split is not necessary. Continue uphill along the ridge that leads to the plateau (6400 m), which you must pass on the left edge toward the top, at the end of the plateau is steep ice rise of 45 degrees, a length of 80 meters (Knife). Further, between the rocks, the output terminal of the field and follow a logical path of ascent, the ascent to the peak, You will find the highest point.
Khan-Tengri peak indescribable beautiful. When the early morning peak Khan-Tengri burning gold over the surrounding mountain range, your eyes will turn in his direction and it is difficult to break away from this spectacle.
For climbers, this peak is one of the few in the world, on top of which everyone wants to visit.
Do not try to conquer this peak, with its track record includes only a few routes 1-3 complexity (at least without an experienced guide). Mount serious both physically and technically. There is a route - "classic", at the Western edge of which we now and will tell you, and you think carefully and weigh their strength, after all, if you decide to do this then you will be one on one with the great Mountain...
The route to the Khan-Tengri Peak briefly like this:Knan Tengri route
The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m. Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground. Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod. The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.
At the moment, there are no fixed departure dates. This program is available from early July to late August.
No single supplement is possible for the programm.
The package price includes:
• meeting / seeing off at the airport, Bishkek, and Osh.
• transfers airport - hotel - airport, Bishkek, and Osh.
• transfer Osh - base camp Achik-Tash - Osh.
• transfer Bishkek - helipad Karkara - Bishkek.
• flight Bishkek - Osh - Bishkek (free baggage allowance - 15 kg; over transportation additionally paid - 0,5 Euro/kg).
• helicopter flight to base camp South Inylchek transportation (transportation of cargo without limit).
• accommodation in hotels in Bishkek and in Osh with breakfast (not more than 5 nights!).
• lunch on the road Osh - Achik-Tash - Osh and Bishkek - Karkara - Bishkek.
• accommodation and meals (3 times a day) in the Base Camps: "Achik-Tash", "Camp No. 1 on 4400 m", "South Inylchek" and "Karkara".
• free use of a hot shower or bath, toilet, lockers in Base Camps: "Achik-Tash", "Camp No. 1 at 4400 m", "South Inylchek" and "Karkara".
• consultation guide.
• consultation of doctor.
• registration is saved in the squad.
• environmental fee for living in camps.
• fixed "rod" when climbing.
• the use of distant radio.
• rental stations during climbing (only for groups of more than 3 persons).
• exchange service tickets and railway tickets.
• a pass in the border/area.
• registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary).
The package price does not include:
• The cost of the Kyrgyz visa.
• International flight.
• Meals not included in the program - meals on the mountain above camp 1, and in the cities.
• Alcoholic drinks.
• Personal expenses (insurance, overweight in airplanes, etc.).
• Services of a mountain guide and porters.
• Renting of personal and group climbing equipment.
Mountain Guide services for Khan Tengri peak:
1 person – 1680 USD
2 person – 1050 USD per person
3 person – 840 USD per person
Mountain Guide services for Lenin peak:
1 guide for 1 person – 1400 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 1680 USD
1 guide for 3 persons -1890 USD
Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes
Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
Expedition to Lenin and Khan-Tengri Peaks
Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan
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